Coyote Canyon
Sustainable Adventures in Mexico’s San Miguel Allende
Story & Photos by Gerardo Ibarra
The sun is setting on the horizon line and night is about to descend. We’re at the top of the canyon rim and there’s not much time to go down to the river before we run out of light. My horse, “H” starts the descent. I can tell that he knows exactly what he's doing and subtly let’s me know to leave us in his hands.
“Trust your horse, he knows the way,” adds Rodrigo Landeros, a confident, real-life cowboy and our moonlight guide.
Rodrigo Landeros saddling up at the Coyote Canyon Ranch | Photo: Gerardo Ibarra
As our posse advances through the canyon and back towards the ranch, I can feel the tension has gone. The large rocks of the canyon seem to have their own light and the river water shines like silver. Between the rocks, above the trees, the full moon is appearing, shining with a white that I have never seen before. We are so happy to finally see it that Rodrigo lets out a deep howl that we all imitate, awakening that primal sensation of finding ourselves deep in nature.
Rodrigo is the face of Coyote Canyon Adventures, a sustainable horseback guiding company that Rodrigo himself started 20 years ago in San Miguel de Allende, in Mexico’s central state of Guanajuato. He’s an authentic, badass cowboy and his genuine look inspires me with a true sense of adventure. But his work and his local team are full of passion, sensitivity, and a collective love for the territory.
“Trust your horse…” Yunuen López making contact | Photo: Gerardo Ibarra
Together with his partner Javier Morín, a local cowboy from the nearby Boca de la Cañada community, they have managed to involve dozens of locals in the business, offering horseback adventures and various natural experiences and tours. Yunuen López, a beautiful and fearless woman from northern Mexico—Rodrigo's right-hand for the last seven years—accompanies us on our horse packing journey and shares with me the company's challenges and achievements.
Javier Morín | Photo: Gerardo Ibarra
Yunuen explains how San Miguel de Allende is a very popular destination for tourism and has been a refuge for North American expats for years. Just the day before, I walked the city’s cobblestone streets and experienced the galleries, restaurants and impeccable facades. The place is like the set of a western movie from the 1950's—the cantinas are always open, the parks full of families and the mariachi plays at sunset. It felt like at any moment Pedro Infante or John Wayne might appear riding a horse around the corner.
San Miguel Allende style: Rodrigo shows off his love of art and adventure | Photo: Gerardo Ibarra
In recent years, however, the state of Guanajuato has suffered the consequences of the endless war against drug trafficking that strikes in the heart of Mexico. Some municipalities have been especially affected by armed conflict and, unfortunately, the insecure conditions and lack of decent employment alternatives mean that many people get involved in illegal activities. This situation, in addition to the conditions of poverty and unemployment, has forced hundreds of people to migrate illegally to the United States.
Back at the ranch, by the light of the fire and the heat from our Mezcal, Rodrigo tells us how his life in the region began. An artist-painter from the north of the country, he was traveling through Mexico when he got to know San Miguel de Allende and just a couple of years afterwards, he decided to move there with his partner and his newborn daughter. He soon met Javier, a local cowboy who owns the land in the canyon where some tours are held. Together they began simple tours and experiences with the support of local residents who have grown interested in the company and the new sources of income that tourism generated in the region.
Coyote Canyon Adventures has managed to prevail in this region, creating economic stability and employment in the communities where it works. In addition, the organization has created unique and safe experiences to show travelers the most of Mexico and throughout Guanajuato.
Like any project that takes place in a small community, there are challenges. Gaining the trust of the local inhabitants has been one of the biggest hurdles for Rodrigo and his staff. To achieve this trust, he’s has had the support of Yunuen, Javier, and Monique, his first daughter, who promote sustainability and community development actions to inspire the health and well-being of the community and for visiting adventure travelers.
Rodrigo Landeros | Photo: Gerardo Ibarra
From the perspective of sustainability, tourism has the potential to generate positive socio-environmental impacts on the territory and its communities, reversing the damage caused by traditional mass tourism, the growth of urban centers, war and other socio-environmental problems.
Coyote Canyon Adventures directly employs more than 34 people who now have alternative or additional sources of income for themselves and their families. This includes young women and men in different positions. Through the generation of additional sources of employment, the company contributes to the reduction in migration from Mexico to the United States for some members of the community, who prefer to stay on their land and with their family (like the majority of migrants) with fair and satisfying employment.
The bottles of Mezcal are running out as the stories accumulate. A melancholy acapella song by Cristiana, Rodrigo's second daughter, plays on the speaker as we listen to the stories of Monique and how she will continue to work for and promote the Coyote Canyon experience over time. She has become a strong and fundamental link between the organization and the local community.
Travel always seeks to generate encounters: encounters with others, encounters with nature, and encounters with oneself. Coyote Canyon Adventures, which is one of the best examples of sustainable tourism that I have encountered in Mexico, manages to generate all of these experiences in genuine, deep and real way.
About the Author:
Gerardo Ibarra is a Mexican travel and sustainability specialist. He is the founder of Ruta Origen, Director of Operations of Dopamina Travel and collaborator of ATMEX. He is a travel photojournalist, consultant, and academic. All images ©GerardoIbarra